Extra Tailoring Supplies!

1:15 PM

So, we've covered patterns, fabric, linings and interfacings.  Let's talk notions!

Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Heads
Shaping the shoulder
Most coat patterns will more than likely be drafted for shoulder pads.  A pattern will tell you the amount of thickness your shoulder pads should be, because the shoulder area has already been drafted to accomodate.  Even if you're like me and have broad shoulders and think you don't need any extra, shoulder pads should still be used for shoulder shaping and support in your coat or jacket. 
You can buy shoulders pads pre-made... I prefer the uncovered kind instead of the ones the sell at Hancock or Joann's.  It's a personal preference if I must purchase them.  But more than likely, I would make my own.  Also, if you have unbalanced shoulders, you can easily adjust for it with layers of fleece.
Here are detailed steps showing how I create shoulder pads using the front and back pattern pieces.


Sleeve heads prevent the sleeve caps from collapsing.  You can purchase these pre-made.  I make mine with the same fleece used for the shoulder pads.  They're just 2"x9" strips.
This is how they're sewn in.

Stay Tapes
I think most sewers have their own preference for stay tapes.  But this is how it's used in tailoring.  It stabilizes the lapel roll line, it secures the hair canvas interfacing to the garment.  It's also used to stabilize the shoulders.  And if you're making a collarless coat, use it around the neckline.

Buttons
Brass buttons from my Vogue 2873 Pea Coat
For your coat, always pick high quality buttons, such as brass, metal, bone, horn, etc...   If possible, buy your buttons with your coat fabric in hand.  If you have to order online and separately, just make sure they will work well with your garment.  Patterns suggest the size buttons that should be used.  You should always stick with that.  A size smaller or larger may look disproportionate.  And always buy extra buttons for replacements.

Specialty Thread
In addition to regular all-purpose thread for construction, I like to use Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy thread for topstitching.  It makes for greater stitch definition.  I like to use a size 16 needle.  And for buttons, I use Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus Button & Craft.

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5 comments

  1. I must admit, I am a bit nervous about the tailoring. The inside of the coat makes me pause...a lot to learn.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Erica,
    So glad I joined this group! The things mentioned in this post are completely foreign to me even though I consider myself an experienced sewist!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Erica,
    So glad I joined this group! The things mentioned in this post are completely foreign to me even though I consider myself an experienced sewist!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm SOOOOOO nervous and VERRRYYYY excited!!! I've been sewing for many years and have never ever made a coat!!!

    ReplyDelete