"Can I Use Fusible Interfacing?" | Multiple Ways To Tailor!

1:30 PM

There are multiple tailoring techniques.  I think the idea of tailoring a coat or a jacket initially sounds daunting to many.  That's probably why the idea of sewing a coat is pretty intimidating.  But it doesn't have to be.  I'm going to share with you all the different methods I've used in the past.

This jacket was constructed using the custom-tailoring method.  It features hand padstitching, sew-in hair canvas, taped lapels. 
And so was this one.  Another feature of custom-tailoring is a lining that is sewn in by hand.

The next way is the machine-tailoring method.  This is a method that I use most ofter as of lately.  I've gotten enough padstitching under my belt and I'm okay with not ever having to do it again.  The padstitching is done with a serpentine stitch.  It's the #4 stitch on Bernina machines.  The taped lapel roll line is also done by machine.  Hair canvas is still used in this method.  And the lining is "bagged" instead of being sewn in by hand.

And the last method is of course, fusible-tailoring method.  Everywhere interfacing is needed, you can just fuse it.  You can tape your lapel roll line using the machine method, but it's not necessary to do it.  You can skip that step if you like.  And the lining is of course bagged.

And if you're like me, over a period of time you learn where you want what and will probably use a combination of all three in the construction of a single garment!  Personal touches!

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17 comments

  1. The only stay tape I can find is nylon sew in or fusible. I would prefer sew in. Do you have a resource I can check out - I have been all lover the sewing/tailoring supply sites. Is twill tape too heavy?

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    1. I like nylon also. I gave up the cotton twill stay tape years ago. I like this one too: http://www.wawak.com/Stay-Tape-1-2-x-10-yds.

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  2. Thanks so much. I am also contemplating a quilted lining for my coat. Do think that will be an issue - I live in Wyoming and it is very frigid here in the winter.

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    1. I can't say. But I've seen ready made quilted lining fabric before.

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    2. I found some on WAWAK website. We will see how it handles when it arrives - I can always use it for another project if it doesn't suit me and the fabric.
      Thanks again.

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  3. I have to say you are getting me PUMPED for this sew-along! I saw your post on inspiration for selecting a pattern, but have you recommended any patterns yet, or am I getting ahead of myself? Lol!

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    1. I haven't recommended any patterns. Being that this SEW-ALONG is primarily for intermediate and up sewers, most already had ideas on what they want to sew.

      Thanks sewsincity!

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    2. Ok, I saw in your first post you said "in the next days I will be posting pattern suggestions.." wasn't sure how literal that was. I hope you have a better day!

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    3. Everyday is a great and highly fulfilled day for me! Probably why I am unfortunately just now reading your comment. Tone is so hard to detect in the written word, so I'm not going to jump to conclusion as to what the "better" day thing meant. Maybe you misconstrued my comment, so I shall clarify:

      If you have joined the Facebook group, you would see that it appears the group members have selected their patterns or are currently on the path of narrowing down and making a final decision with rregards to what they will make.

      Intermediate to advanced sewers pretty much know what they like and what works for them. Every coat isn't for everyone. Hence the reason for every participant being able to select their own pattern. It's about the "Personal Touch"...

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  4. I have a quick question...I was told by another sewer that light/medium weight cotton canvas is an acceptable substitue for hair canvas in the construction of a coat. I do not know her well so have no idea if this is true. Does anyone know what would the results be if one used cotton canvas as a sew in interfacing instead of hair canvas? Erica, what are your thoughts please??

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    1. Eliza, I've never used it. As always with ANY interfacing, test a sample of it against a swatch of your fabric.

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    2. Thanks, Erica! I was just wondering. Since this is my first coat and I plan to wear it for some time to come, I want to do it right so I will just stick with hair canvas. :-)

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  5. When sewing the interfacing to the undercollar, do you sew through all layers? I have a couple of reference books, but I am stumped?

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  6. Hello, I have a question to ask. How do you machine pad stitch using serpentine stitch? I've seen using a long straight stitch down in rows. How do you achieve an all over stitch?

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    1. Coming soon, I'll do a Periscope or some sort of video showing how I do that.

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  7. That dark red jacket is one of the most beautifully tailored I've seen. I'm making my first jacket. I'm going to attempt both the couture way with canvas and the other way with fusible. Will you share what brand of hair canvas and what brand/weight of fusible you used? Also, what are your thoughts on the overall look/feel of canvassed vs fused?

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