I'm currently in the midst of working on my vintage coat - Vogue Couturier Design 2925 from Fabiani. I'd originally planned to make current pattern offering, Vogue 8346. That's a good coat pattern, but I wanted great. And then I came across this beauty. After last year's amazing vintage coat, there's no way I could go back to current pattern offerings right now. I love the drafting and instructions in vintage patterns. It's like taking a tailoring course. Plus, the interfacing pattern pieces are already there. No need to have to draft and figure out where to interface. You won't find that in modern patterns.
I just set my sleeves, so let's talk a little about that. By the way, here is an update on my blog so that you can take a look at the inside and see how it's interfaced with hair canvas.
This coat has a two-piece sleeve. For my coats and jackets, I prefer a two-piece sleeve instead of a one-piece sleeve. Why? Because a one-piece sleeve is "symmetrical". Our arms are NOT. When we stand relaxed, our arms don't hang straight and stiff. They naturally curve to the front. And that's why a two-piece sleeve is the best choice for a better range of motion. I talk more in detail about the One-Piece Sleeve vs. Two-Piece Sleeve here. And previously when I discussed how you can combine different interfacing techniques? This is definitely one time when I do that. Notice that I use fusible interfacing on the sleeve hems. Yes, you SHOULD be interfacing your sleeve hems! If you didn't know that, now you know. To add interfacing, your interfacing should extend 1/2" beyond the hem. My sleeve hem is 2", my interfacing is 2.5" wide.
This is my favorite way... well, my only way I will set a tailored sleeve. I use bias cut hair canvas strips that are 2" x 12". This method is perfection! I always get a smooth sleeve with a softly rounded cap that is pucker-free on the first try! Here is a detailed description on How to Set a Sleeve with Bias Strips in this post.
And I always use a lot of pins!
Still left do before I put my lining in is to add my custom made shoulder pads.
I'm loving the way the coat is turning out and I can't wait to be finished so I can start wearing this beauty.